THE BARROW RIVER

The pink heads of Himalayan balsalm add an exotic touch to the banks on the way to Clogrennan Lock. Milford Lock is negotiated on the way to Milford, once the centre of an extensive milling industry. It was from this quiet hamlet, that, in 1891, Carlow became the first inland town in Ireland or Britain to receive a public electric supply. The generating plant has been recently restored. The idyllic setting includes 3 bridges, handsome mill buildings and a wooded area, containing an aquatic triangle, rich with wildlife.

The river now meanders through tranquil countryside, past a wood of oak, ash and draping willow, where time seems to stand still. An island studded straight stretch of water leads to Leighlinbridge. Glide through the graceful arches of the oldest bridge on the river. The attractive 7-arch structure was built in 1320 by Maurice Jakis and the castle which dominates the river is known as the Black Castle, originally built in 1180.

The Lord Bagenal Inn in the centre of the village has developed an excellent reputation for quality food and value for money. The menu offers a particularly wide selection of fresh seafood in season and the restaurant has won many national and international awards. Recommended by John and Sally McKenna of the Irish Times, Les Routiers and Egon Ronay. Tel: + 353 (0) 59 9721668

The Sea of Tranquillity may be on the moon, but the earthbound version is the stretch of river between Leighlinbridge and Bagenalstown. The celebrated Dinn Righ ring fort (not open to the public) on the west bank presides over pastoral beauty and pastoral peace in equal measure after which a cut leads to Rathellen Lock and on to Bagenalstown. The approach to Bagenalstown is infused with the character of its 18th century origins, with lovely stone-cut buildings, a drawbridge and a picturesque lock.

Bagenalstown, otherwise known as Muine Bheag is sited on a pleasant reach of the River Barrow and derives its name from Walter Bagenal, who attempted to build a town of great architectural importance in the 18th century. Had Bagenal's vision for the town materialised we might today be looking at a mirror image of a town in northern France. His original plan was based on Versailles, which had its genesis in the palace of Louis XIV, with fine streetscapes and classical buildings. Shortly after he had made an impressive start by building an imposing courthouse modelled on the Parthenon in Athens, his efforts became frustrated. However, the arrival of the railway in 1846 rejuvenated the town, and its fine neo-classical railway station and impressive Courthouse continue to delight the visitor. Nowadays, one of the finest views of the Courthouse may be enjoyed on the approach road from Leighlinbridge and includes the spire of St. Andrew's Catholic church and the fine tower of St. Mary's Church of Ireland church.

ATTRACTIONS: Dunleckney Manor. Home to the Bagenal family for almost three centuries from 1585 onwards and designed in Tudor Gothic style with oriel windows. Now restored to its former glory and open to the public on selected days from April - September inclusive. Tel: 059-9721932 for further details.

The ruins of the early 14th century Ballymoon Castle and 13th century Ballyloughan Castle are located near the town. Wells Church, situated closeby, is the preserved ruin of a church dating back to 1262. It is surrounded by a beautifully well-kept grave yard which dates back to the 1700's.

ACTIVITIES: Today Bagenalstown is a pretty town with riverside walks, picnic tables and a picturesque lock. There is an outdoor swimming pool on the approach road from Leighlinbridge. The McGrath complex offers excellent sporting facilities including cricket, hurling, soccer and gaelic football fields and a tennis court. Coarse and game fishing with wheelchair friendly fishing stands. Children's playbarn - Kiddies Kingdom.

Onto Borris, a beautiful, untouched Georgian town, full of charm and heritage nestling in the fertile valley of the River Barrow, below the curve of the Blackstairs Mountains. The MacMurrough Kavanagh dynasty, former Celtic Kings of Leinster, are central to this picturesque town of old stone buildings and the family still live at Borris House in the town centre. The town prospered in the late 1800's as Arthur McMurrough Kavanagh, the landlord of the time, developed a sawmill and a thriving lace-making industry. He also instigated the building of the graceful 16-arch viaduct, situated at the lower end of the town, which carried the now defunct Great Southern and Western Railway Line between Bagenalstown and Wexford.

ATTRACTIONS: Borris House, open to groups by prior arrangement Tel: 059-9771305. Mount Leinster Drive and the Blackstairs Mountains.

ACTIVITIES: Hang-gliding on Mount Leinster, walking along the South Leinster and Barrow Ways. Coarse and game angling. Golfing at Borris Golf Club.

Below Borris Lock a miniature one-eyed bridge conceals a tiny harbour. It was from this place that Arthur Kavanagh, who was born without limbs in 1831, set forth by boat to Westminster to fulfil his duties as Member of Parliament. He was Lord Lieutant of County Carlow, Member of the Privy Council of Ireland, local magistrate and a superb horseman. Further downstream, the Rhine-like aspect of the valley can be appreciated to the full, with the Blackstairs Mountains on one side and Saddle Hill on the other pinching the river tight between the valley walls. The hills flow down to the river, retreat, and flow again, all clad in a huge variety of deciduous trees, some of which bend their heads over the stream, creating leafy banks of great beauty.

The broad graceful curves of the weirs and the setting of the locks at Ballingrane, Clashganny and Ballykeenan provide beautiful subjects for your camera and your holiday album.

The river bends and bends again past Silaire Woods and its choir of birds. This stretch of water is nature at its most gentle, which makes the final bend all the more surprising and exciting, when the colourful town of Graiguenamanagh is suddenly revealed on the west bank, with Brandon Hill making a dramatic statement above it.

Cruising the River Barrow.

Graignamanagh is in Co. Kilkenny, while Tinnahinch, on the east bank is in Co. Carlow. The beautiful bridge, floodlit at night, links the two and dates from 1767 when a canal system was being built on the Barrow to improve navigation.

Before the bridge and perched above the town is historic Duiske Abbey, now beautifully restored. It was founded by Norman monks from Stanley Abbey, Wiltshire, in 1204.

Take time to walk through the town with its great selection of shops, pubs and music. Those of you who like long walks can take the road to Brandon Hill or head for Tinnahinch bridge and join the Barrow Way long-distance walking trail.

Cruising downstream, the valley becomes deeper, with first the west and then the east banks carrying tiers of trees on steep hills which tumble colourfully towards the river all the way to St. Mullins and the end of the navigation.

St. Mullins is a scenically charming riverside village with an impressive ecclesiastical history and is one of the most important religious foundations in Co. Carlow. A walk of about 2kms from the mooring leads to the graceful ruin of the monastery founded by St. Moling in the 7th century. The Kings of South Leinster, including the MacMurrough-Kavanaghs, are buried in the precincts.

A small bridle path behind the ruins leads to St. Moling's Well, from which close up views of the river, its weir and old millrace can be enjoyed.